Golden rules for roast potatoes

For me, the linchpin of a good Christmas dinner is the roast potato: golden and crunchy on the outside, soft and cloudy inside. I am not normally a ‘rule’ kind of person – unless we are talking roast potatoes.

Start with good, floury potatoes: maris piper or king edward are both good.

I cook about three large potatoes per person, peeled and cut into roughly golf-ball-sized pieces at random angles, giving more edges to crisp up.

Blanch the potatoes in very well-salted, boiling water for 10-12 minutes, until almost fully cooked, a knife should easily go into the centre of the potato and soft on the outside.

Drain the potatoes, leave to steam-dry for five minutes in the colander, then shake vigorously in the pan or colander until the potatoes have a ragged, fluffy edge, which will mean golden crisp bits.

Put five tablespoons of olive oil or ghee (or a mixture) in a large roasting tray, then put in the oven (at 200C, 180C fan) for 10-15 minutes to get really hot before you add the potatoes. Be careful when you do, as hot fat can splash. Toss them in the oil and season well with salt and pepper.

Now is the time to add any flavourings. My favourite combinations are:
a whole, halved bulb of garlic with rosemary sprigs and strips of lemon zest;
lots of flaky salt and two tablespoons of white-wine vinegar,

A few bay leaves, sprigs of thyme and strips of orange zest;
or two lemons, zested, halved and added to the tray with a tablespoon of coriander seeds.

Optional but good - halfway through cooking, lightly squash the potatoes with a potato masher, to give more surface area in contact with the tray, which means more brown bits.

Once the potatoes are crisp, golden and perfect, you can keep them in the roasting tray at room temperature, warming for 10 minutes in a hot oven just before you serve.

If you want to be really ahead of the game, the night before, you can blanch, season and tray up your spuds, tossed in a little oil to stop them discolouring. Keep in the fridge until 30 minutes before you want to cook.