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A comforting loaf cake peppered with flecks of rosemary and chunks of chocolate and which uses olive oil instead of butter. The rosemary and chocolate are an unexpectedly subtle pairing, which I adore. This is a less sweet cake, almost fudgy, with a delicate herbal back-note. It’s so good that, if I got married again, I’d have it as a layer in my wedding cake. It's an old favourite from my Guardian column. You can use a standard olive oil here; it doesn’t need to be extra virgin. It pairs wonderfully with rosemary, but I have also made this by nestling a few bay leaves in the top of the batter instead. You could also replace the rosemary with orange zest or the seeds from a vanilla pod. To make it vegan, omit the eggs and milk, and use sparkling water instead.

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