I ate something like this at a café near where I live, then went back twice in the following weeks for the same thing, until I realised I should probably just work out how to make it myself. It was spring, so I used new potatoes instead of the sweet potatoes the café had gone for. I have kept my tortilla pretty simple but you could also add any other spring or summer veg that you like.
The real star here is the tomato kasundi, which is an insanely good Indian tomato relish. It is a variation of kasundi, which is originally a sauce made from fermented mustard seeds. Mine is not much like the original. This recipe makes more kasundi than you will need, so your efforts will be rewarded beyond just one dinner.
I have also suggested a few favourite ways to use the kasundi you are left with. If you don’t have time to make it, a good tomato relish would work. I cook some halloumi here to sit with the tortilla. I realise I am crossing a few continents but I don’t really mind; it’s a great combination.
First make the kasundi. Melt the coconut oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and add the mustard seeds. Cook until they start to pop, then add the turmeric, ginger, chilli, garlic and cumin seeds. Fry for a minute until everything smells fragrant.
Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt and vinegar and turn the heat right down. Simmer gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally. When the oil rises to the top of the pan the kasundi is ready.
While the kasundi is gently cooking, melt the tablespoon of coconut oil in a large ovenproof frying pan (I use one that’s 28cm) over a medium heat and add the red onions. Cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring regularly, until the onions are completely soft and sweet, then add the potatoes along with the fennel seeds and a pinch of salt. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the potato is soft and yielding but beginning to crisp at the edges. Meanwhile, finely chop the coriander stalks and add these to the pan too. After the potatoes have had their time, add the chilli flakes, lime zest and spinach and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, until the spinach has completely wilted.
Beat the eggs in a small bowl with a pinch of salt and pour into the frying pan. Turn the grill on. Cook the tortilla on a medium heat on the hob for 8 minutes, then place under the hot grill for a further 4 minutes to finish and brown the top.
While the tortilla is cooking, fry the halloumi in a non-stick frying pan for a couple of minutes on each side, until golden brown.
Serve the tortilla in wedges, with a couple of slices of halloumi and a spoonful of tomato kasundi. Finish with the coriander leaves and wedges of lime, and a few salad leaves if you like.
An essential addition to every cook’s bookshelf, The Modern Cook’s Year will show you how to make the most of seasonal produce, using simple, hugely inventive flavours and ingredients. Divided into six seasons, the cookbook contains over 200 delicious vegetarian recipes interspersed with tips on everything from seasonal music playlists to flowers to look out for in each month of the year.
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